Surroundings
Panarea – whose name comes from Panaraia (all disjointed) – is the smallest of the Aeolian islands: it has an area of just 3,400 square metres, and is 11,5 miles far from the main Aeolian island of Lipari. It has always been very little populated, thanks to its remoteness, but its dramatic coastline, offshore islets and a crystal-clear sea where you can snorkel above columns of bubbles exuded by volcanic fumeroles, have transformed it over recent decades in to the most feted island in the archipelago. In the 1960s and 70s, the island began to be discovered by an exclusive coterie, many of whom bought land and ruins. These modest ruins, exquisitely restored in the local style, and surrounded by magnificent gardens – have helped make Panarea the most fashionable island in Sicily.
Panarea’s diminutive size and narrow, traffic-free unlit alleys – a torch is a must for walking home at night – mean that there is nothing to spoil the atmosphere of utter escapism.
However, in July and August VIPs arrive on huge yachts and by helicopter, and the island fills to capacity with those in search of glamour and a good time. If this is what you are looking for, Panarea has a great night life: there are top-class restaurants, discos on the sea, and exclusive boutiques open till the early hours. If it is peace you are after, however, July and August should be avoided.
Distances
Milazzo, on the north coast of Sicily, is the nearest port to the Aeolian islands, and Panarea is served by several hydrofoils and ferries daily.
From Reggio Calabria and Messina: there are several daily hydrofoils in the summer, though you may need to change at Lipari.
From Naples (change at Salina or Lipari): by ferry, with Siremar, twice a week in the winter and up to 6 weekly in the summer; by hydrofoil, Ustica Lines, once or twice a day, only in the summer (10 June/20 Sept.), stopping in Lipari.
From Palermo (change at Salina): Ustica Lines hydrofoil, once daily in summer.